Tag: rivers

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A Few Moments at McNary

Matthew O. Stephens

Located near the tri-cities area in Burbank Washington, McNary National Wildlife Refuge has a lot to offer.  Although the area is a refuge in itself encompassing around 15,000 acres, McNary is managed as part of a larger grouping of similar wildlife areas.  This grouping, as described by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services is called the Mid-Columbia River National Wildlife Refuge Complex.  One main office basically has to manage 7 or 8 wildlife refuges in the region, and that is in part due to similarities between them all.  Many of these areas share similar wildlife, although McNary really gets a lot of bird activity because of the specific environment.  It is considered a bird watchers paradise by some, especially when the migratory birds are making their way through the area. 

Barn Swallow
Evening view
Red-Winged Blackbird

It is a very high maintenance refuge also, as the staff members have to develop and utilize techniques to help promote natural habitat growth or recovery.  These methods have to be enhanced year to year, as seasonal weather may have an impact on which areas of the refuge need attention.  McNary does have a little help from some local farmers though, as around 700 acres of the refuge are irrigated croplands.  According to Washington State Parks this means the park and local farmers have a cooperative agreement that is mutually beneficial.  The farmers grow their crops of wheat, alfalfa, corn, etc. and then leave a portion of it for the local wildlife.  This can have a major impact during the colder winter months when natural food sources are low. 

Killdeer
Barn Swallow
Cormorant

Habitats change season to season, and right now is a great time to see the Summer animals.  Larger birds such as swans, pelicans, herons, bitterns, and others can be found in the water searching searching for food and enjoying the breeze as it blows across the water.  Eagles, Osprey, hawks, and other raptors can be found flying high in the sky looking for a good place to fish.  Deer can be found here and there, but their numbers drastically increase as the season moves into Fall.  It is not uncommon for visitors to see males competing for females as mating season goes in full swing.  The larger birds will stay around and hang tight through the fall, and even into Winter for some.  Winter becomes a very busy season for ducks, geese, etc. and there can be several thousand birds inhabiting the refuge.  As Spring rolls in, some birds will leave and head further north for a bit, while other birds that migrated further south will fly to McNary.  The cyclic nature of the land is clearly apparent in the way everything operates.  As stated by Fish & Wildlife the changing of seasons here is just a transition of birds that live on the refuge.   

Barn Swallow
Ring Billed Gull
Yellow-Headed Blackbird

McNary is a very fun and informative place to visit, especially when visiting the area.  There are a lot of animals to see, and birds to identify. Be sure to check out the McNary official Facebook page by clicking here!!!  So get out there and find some adventures!!  

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The Simple Paradise of Potholes State Park

Matthew O. Stephens

Washington state has some really incredible state parks, and Potholes State Park is an amazing place to visit.  Sitting on close to 800 acres, it is aptly named for the geological features of the area.  Ice Age activity left a pattern of divots and channels through the area, and since the construction of the O’Sullivan Dam the landscape has a definitive series of “pothole” lakes.  These smaller pothole lakes are about 30-45 minutes away from the actual state park though, as it borders the deeper waters more suitable for boating and fishing as pointed out by the Washington State Parks  website.

Potholes Reservoir
Treeline in the park
Squirrel
Goose
Several sections of the park are lined with these trees
Owl

Animals can be found aplenty during certain times of the year, and that includes eagles, owls, geese, and various mammals that wander through the park.  It is also nearby the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge, which can make for a nice drive while in the area.  Wildlife can be found wandering through the arid brushland, finding food or drinking from the freshwater pools.  People can camp at Potholes, and according to www.stateparks.com it features 61 tent spaces, and 60 utility spaces.  There are also a handful of cabins available to rent, and pets are allowed in certain cabins with an extra fee.

Eagle
Owl with Owlet
Cabin
Killdeer
Woodpecker
Robin tossing leaves
Squirrel

Referring back to Washington State Parks the fishing is pretty solid, and features large mouth bass, rainbow trout, crappie, and yellow perch.  Also plenty of open water for the people that simply want to get out in the boats and feel the air.  When looking to the air, visitors can expect to see a plethora of birds.  Small birds such as plovers and killdeer can be seen darting about the grass, while raptors such as owls and eagles will be seen during certain times of the year.  A wide open park area has picnic tables scattered about, and there are also 2 covered stations for people to eat if needed.  Several miles of hiking trails are great for park visitors after they have seen the immaculate waterfront.  Being a state park, visitors do need to either have a Discover Pass or purchase a day or year pass from the automated kiosk on site.

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Hiking Hog Lake

Matthew O. Stephens

This nice little landscape will take you through various scenes along the trail.  The main looping trail here is a pretty easy hike, as the main loop is under 2 miles.  There are other pathways that explorers can use to extend this hike a bit, and some of them skirt right along the lake’s edge.  The terrain is easily manageable in most areas, but can become muddy in spots.  As hikers progress along the trail, there will be notices of private property and trail users should respect those notices.  The best time to hike through the area is early to mid Spring, as the wildflowers will be coloring the hillsides.  The Washington Trails Association points out that Arrowleaf Balsamroot will be plentiful in the Spring, and that is also the best time to see the other wildflower varieties. The waterfall will also be at it’s strongest flow during this time of year.

The lake is open in the Winter for fishing as well, as it opens the Friday after Thanksgiving as stated by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.  It is a relatively popular trail, and can be used by people of any skill level as suggested by AllTrails.com.  The trails out there are great for dogs but keep them on a leash and keep them away from the edge of the higher cliffs.  Hikers will also be able to potentially see a variety of songbirds and larger wildlife.  Deer have been seen in the area, and once in a while a coyote is spotted.  Smaller mammals such as squirrels, chipmunks, and other animals can be spotted along the trails as well.  Visitors should also be aware that insects and spiders will also be found as the weather warms up.  Hikers may also encounter some smaller snakes on the rocks overlooking the lake, and the vast beauty continues throughout the entire hike.

Overlooking the waterfall
Hog Lake Falls Long Exposure
Hog Lake Falls
Hog Lake through the Lensball
Down by the water
Snake
Looking over the lake
Shoreline view
View of one of the ponds along the way
Hog Lake through the Lensball view 2

There are no fees or passes required to visit the area, which is another great reason to visit Hog Lake.  The trails are all pretty easy to identify and follow, although as mentioned on The Washington Trails Association it is possible to become confused with some of the cattle trails that scatter the hillside.  As I mentioned above however there are property boundary signs, which are private property markers for the farms surrounding the area.  That is also the reasoning for some of the gates people may encounter along their journey at Hog Lake.  A trip report on theoutbound.com mentions those same gates, but goes on to mention the incredible views to be encountered along the trails.  Also claiming that some of the best landscape photos can be taken on the ridge-lines that carry the trail along the cliff’s edge.  It is truly an experience to make time for, and one that will be sure to create a great hiking adventure.

Lensball view from the ridge
Panorama of waterfall and lake
Small mushroom
Looking uphill
Duck
Incredible reflection
Tree by the lake
Blue skies
Vulture
Looking up the rocky cliff

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Fort Spokane: Pieces of History Still Stand

Matthew O. Stephens

Fort Spokane is an incredibly interesting place, and the grounds hold a lot of history as well.  Most of the buildings that once stood as part of the fort have fallen and little remains.  The main reason being that the area was abandoned for many years before restorative efforts were made on the buildings that were still standing.  Factors that probably influenced the creation of Fort Spokane can probably be traced back 20 years or so prior to the actual construction.  At the time, the U.S. Government was pretty well set on appropriating land through means of forcibly moving the native populations onto reservations.  The story up here in the state of Washington was pretty much the same according to Spokane Historical, and it molded a tense relationship between natives and settlers at times.

 

Old Chair in the Quartermaster Stable
Sign and overview of the foundation for the Bachelor’s Office Quarters
Down by the river
Quartermaster Stable
Looking down on the grounds and the river
Myself, my wife, and my daughter walking along the Sentinel Trail
Looking at the bridge that crosses over to the Spokane Reservation
Information sign regarding Fort Spokane
Sand down by the river

This tension increased with the introduction of the railroad to the area, and more natives were forced off of the lands they thought of as “communal.”  They didn’t want to see the land basically privatized and given to settlers, because the tribes depended on the ability to freely hunt, fish, camp, and travel.  In 1880, near the confluence of the Spokane and Columbia Rivers the United States introduced Camp Spokane as a means to keep peace between natives and settlers.  Within a couple of years barracks, storage facilities, and other structures were added, and it was upgraded to the status of a military fort.  For the following several years life was probably pretty average around Fort Spokane, without much hostility between settlers and tribes.  Actually, as stated on Washington, Our Home, “one of the most interesting facts about Fort Spokane is that there was never a shot fired in anger from either the soldiers stationed at the fort or the Indians. And since there didn’t seem to be any expectation of conflict, the Army finally left the post just 18 years after its creation.”

 

Quartermaster Stable
Looking down the bridge that crosses over to part of the Spokane Reservation
Spokane River looking towards the Columbia
Quartermaster Stable through a Lensball
Building foundation for living quarters
Building foundation for living quarters
Quartermaster stable
Old chain holding logs together down by the river
Barrel with the quartermaster stables in the distance
Spokane river through a Lensball

At sometime during 1898-1899 the Colville Indian Agency became responsible for overseeing the grounds and facilities.  They went with the idea of utilizing it as a boarding school for natives, as to teach them the ways of the settlers.  Essentially the native children were forced to learn certain western teachings, so they could more easily acclimate into the culture brought by the settlers.  Much of the native culture was squashed, restricted, or swept under the rug, as was the case across much of the United States.  The National Park Service calls the native experience at Fort Spokane as a “microcosm” of what they endured all over the nation.  After things quieted down for the boarding school, the structures then served as a tuberculosis hospital until 1929 or so when it was disregarded and abandoned.

 

Quartermaster Stable
Old wagon frame in the Quartermaster Stable
Horse shoeing room with tools in the Quartermaster Stable
Looking from one end of the Quartermaster Stable to the other
Quartermaster Stable sign
Quartermaster Stable
Looking upstairs in the Quartermaster Stable
Some of the horses name plates were still in place
Name plates for horses
Section of the Quartermaster Stable
Old wheels in the Quartermaster Stable

Now, we can visit the place to learn about the history and see the displays.  For families visiting, they participate in a Junior Ranger program that allows kids to learn through completing tasks around the park.  Activities involve, but are not limited to hiking the Sentinel Trail, spotting and documenting wildlife, watching one of the available demonstrations, etc.  There are numerous displays to see, and they help to describe what life was like.  One of the most interesting buildings as I experienced it is the Quartermaster Stables, as it houses a numerous amount of artifacts.  This is one of the few surviving buildings, and it is open during the spring and summer months along with the museum and visitor center.  Not to mention the fact that Fort Spokane is very close to other great areas of interest such as Hawk Creek Falls, and is part of the Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area.  An adventure to the area can lead to a pretty unforgettable day trip that should be experienced if at all possible.

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The Beauty & Power of Palouse Falls

Matthew O. Stephens

If you are thinking of travel in the Pacific Northwest or in Washington specifically, then Palouse Falls has got to be on your bucket list.  This powerhouse of a waterfall is incredible when the water levels are high, although it is quite majestic throughout the entire year.  The tremendous landscapes draw in large numbers of people, and on March 18, 2014 it was officially made Washington’s state waterfall according to the Washington State Parks website.

Photographers and artists alike make every effort to capture vibrant sunrises and captivating sunsets.  Palouse Falls does have a specific area with designated paths for walking, however there are a plethora of paths that lead to a multitude of incredible viewpoints, including the very edge of the waterfall looking down.

 

Standing at the edge of Palouse Falls
After rappelling down the incline, I took a photo looking up the rope
Looking down the hill to the trail I wanted to hike
Selfie at the top of the hill I wanted to climb

Warning signs are in place, because there is a pretty good risk of falling if hikers are not careful.  I went on several of the trails outside of the state park area, and found it to be quite an adventure although I recommend staying in the designated area unless well prepared.  One of the trails off by the railroad tracks had an old rope tied around a large bush and I was able to utilize that rope to rappel down the incline and reach the trails below.  That rope would serve as my only way back up the hill as well, making this trip more of an adventure than I had initially thought it would be.  This point is where I had my first interaction with some local wildlife, as I happened to spot a solitary yellow bellied marmot at the top of the hill, and another dozen or so down tucked into the rocky hillside below.  Other animals that visitors can possibly encounter are different birds of prey such as Peregrine Falcons, Golden Eagles, and Swainson’s Hawks.  These birds of course can occasionally be seen perched along the basalt cliffs or flying around scouting an area for possible food.  In the springtime, tourists to the area can expect to see some nice wildflowers growing as well.

 

Bend in the river just before Palouse Falls
Standing at the rocks right next to the waterfall looking over the bowl and downriver
The tall rocks that stand right next to the waterfall
Rapids before the waterfall
Texture in the canyon wall
Yellow Bellied Marmot
Visitors cross this bridge as they go into the state park
A tiny human in an enormous landscape
Texture of the rocky wall
Looking uphill after climbing part way down
Palouse Falls and bowl

The waterfall has quite an extensive history, both geologically and culturally.  According to many sources there is a tale once told by people of the Palouse Tribe, the Palouse river and waterfall were the scene of an epic battle between 4 giant brothers and a mythical creature called “Big Beaver.”  Story has it the brothers chased and attacked the creature 5 times, and each time they struck “Big Beaver” with a spear it caused a bend in the river.  The creature fought fiercely and valiantly during the fifth attack from the brothers.  The struggle tore out an enormous canyon, and this is where the river fell over the ledge and became Palouse Falls.  The canyon walls are said to show the jagged edges from “Big Beaver’s” claw marks.  Also, as mentioned on www.stateparks.com the waterfall was once called “Aputapat” meaning “falling water” or something close to that, but was later changed to honor the Palouse culture.

Downriver from the waterfall, you can see the mist from Palouse Falls
Looking downriver from a ridge above
Above the waterfall, this is one of the severe bends in the river approaching the waterfall
Long Exposure of Palouse Falls

Geologically the canyon’s creation goes back around 13,000 years to a time of Ice Age Flooding and glacial movement, leaving Palouse Falls as one of the few remaining active waterfalls along this ancient glacial flood path.  The floods of that time were said to be extremely violent and catastrophic.  The park has plenty of information signs and a kiosk available for people to learn a bit about the floods.  These Ice Age floods left a destructive path as the ice, water, and mud ripped tons of rock and earth away to carve the canyons in parts of eastern Washington and the Columbia River Gorge on the way to the ocean at speeds possibly reaching close to 60 mph.  The state park here is also one of the more active camping areas in the region, so some pre-planning is almost essential if you want to make it in during low traffic times.

 

Palouse Falls and the river with canyon
Long exposure of the waterfall
Young marmots ventured out to say hello
Bend in the river before the waterfall
Looking uphill after nearly reaching the bottom of the hill
Texture of the rocky wall
The hiking trail went through this rockslide area
Waterfall and canyon
Mist of the waterfall and the canyon
Marmot making sure the coast is clear
Palouse Falls from a side angle

Campsites are available, and a lot of good information can be found by once again going to www.stateparks.com for price listings and regulations specific to Palouse Falls State Park.  A quick rundown shows that standard sites run $15, while utility sites are a bit more at $21.  Visitors can also expect to pay dump fees when using the dump station.  Campsites allow up to 8 people per site, and second vehicles can remain parked for an additional $10 per night.  Campers are allowed up to 10 consecutive days during the busy season, and they stay is extended to 20 days between October 1st and the end of March.  A Washington State Discover Pass is also required, or visitors will have to pay the park entrance fee of $10 for the day also.  Anyone visiting the park and waterfall will certainly be in awe of the massively majestic landscapes, and the crushing current that cascades nearly 200 feet into the canyon below.  Just remember to stay happy and stay safe when visiting!

Here are a few clips from my hike through the area:

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